Top Designers- r1ma

So Wylie had this thought-provoking idea of talking about our favorite designers. I made some hard choices. Since I already talk about Azzedine Alaia so much on this site, I felt that it is not necessary to add him to my list, given that he is already an obvious favorite of mine.

So what are my criterias for a favorite designer?
1. A Strong, Unique Voice
You can ask ten different designers to make a little black dress and they will all make something different, yet only a top designer will make something distinct, something that stands out of the crowd…in an interesting way (although it may not always necessarily be what we think of as “pretty”.)

LBDs interpreted.

2. Craftsmanship
How well tailored is the piece? Do they need to add tons of bells and whistles to their dress to make it interesting?  Did they take time to deliberate on fabric choice? Does the dress feel heavy? Does it feel like you’re wearing nothing at all?
It all boils down to execution. What good is the idea if the final product is uncomfortable-- un-wearable?
Also, the mark of a top designer is the fact that unoriginal leeches will have a hard time copying that dress…because let’s face it, a lot of people make cheap knock offs.
(I try to do this in Star Design too.  How do you make sure that no one will copy your design? Make something that ONLY YOU can make…and something that is difficult to replicate by someone else’s unsuspecting hands.)
 
Detail shots.

3. A World of their Own
Anyone can make a pretty dress.  Just ask the people at Project Runway. But what makes me fall in love with a designer? They make their own worlds. Whether it is the futuristic innovations of Margiela, the intricate sci-fi angles of Pugh, or the foggy, austere luxury of Alber Elbaz’s designs at Lanvin, a good designer knows how to take people into a magical world where it is okay to look like a unique individual who thinks for themselves.

Lost in their world.

So with all that out of the way, her are my top three favorites, in no particular order.

Alber Elbaz at Lanvin

What I love about his designs is the masterful draping and his brave choices in using color.  His fabrics always look like they would feel so good against your skin.
-“Clothes are not reflecting anything.  People reflect. And I think that a good dress is a dress that disappears when you wear it. It is not really about the dress I do, it’s really about the woman who wears it and what that dress does to her face.”- Alber Elbaz
-“Fashion has to bring a dream. Fashion has to make people happy.” – Alber Elbaz
-“You get the feeling that they were the clothes that you dreamt of when you where a little girl. These gorgeous, sort of, proper dresses.” –Kristen Scott Thomas



 

 

Gareth Pugh

Pugh doesn’t need that much color, all he needs is black and white. It is okay because his clothes are so intricately detailed and structured that splashing unnecessary color would only ruin the effect.







 
 

Fall 2009 video…so awesome.

 

Martin Margiela
 
-Carine Roitfeld and Nicolas Ghesquiere are big fans and often wear his clothes.
-Margiela did the huge shoulder years before anyone jumped in on the trend.
-He surrounds himself with an air of mystery and is often referred to as “Fashion’s Invisible Man”, seeing as to how he never wants to show his face in public.  It wasn't until October 1, 2008 when New York Times gave everyone a glimpse of his face.
-Mini Bio of his career:

After graduation in 1980 he worked as a freelance designer for five years. Between 1985 and 1987 he worked for Jean Paul Gaultier, before showing his first collection under his own label in 1988. In 1997 he became, despite his non-traditional design, the chief designer of Hermès women's line.

During the 1980s, the Japanese avantgardists, with Rei Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons—had turned the fashion scene upside-down with their eccentric and ground-breaking designs. Martin Margiela and the Antwerp Six would carry on the work, revolting against the luxurious fashion world with garments of oversized proportions such as long arms, and with linings, seams and hems on the outside. The concept of deconstruction, also embraced by the aforementioned Rei Kawakubo, is important for the understanding of Martin Margiela's fashion statement. Mr Margiela famously redesigns by hand objects such as old wigs, canvases and silk scarves into couture garments.

Throughout his career, Martin Margiela has maintained an extremely low profile. He has never had his picture taken and remains backstage after his shows. All media contact is dealt with via fax. Maison Martin Margiela’s ultradiscreet trademark consists of a piece of cloth with the numbers 0-23. The badge is attached to the inside with its four little white pick stitches, exposed to the outside on unlined garments
-From Wiki

This bolero is made out of latex wigs from costume masks. (Think Elvis)

Paper Towel Tuxedo Jacket.

Hair comb short dress.

Plastic Fur Jacket, made of plastic garment label fastenings.

Made of different shades of denim.
 
"KITE TUNIC"
A tunic is made from a kite, the patterns of which are embroidered with multicolored fringes.
 
"SEQUIN TOP"
Sequin embroideries of vintage garments are assembled and molded on a bust to create a sequin top

"SHOESTRING DRESS"
A long dress is composed of shoestrings in various materials. Certain parts of the dress (shoulder, waist) are hand-woven to create a motif.

"FLAKE DRESS"
A ball dress is cut in disks that are hand-embroidered on a silk chiffon to recompose the dress re-assembled in flakes.

"TATTOO JACKET"
Patterns of tattoos made of drinking straws are applied on a nude color leather sleeveless fitted jacket.


  



Lol at their website welcome page.

So there you have it. Three designer geniuses.